‍What Causes Dead Skin?

Dead skin cells are a totally normal part of our skin’s natural lifecycle. Our skin’s outermost layer, called the stratum corneum, is mostly made up of dead cells, but they still have a very important function: they form a protective shield that helps seal in moisture and defend the more sensitive living layers below from environmental threats like bacteria, pollution, and UV radiation.

Meanwhile, fresh skin cells are produced deep in the basal layer (the bottom-most layer of the epidermis). As these new cells mature, they travel upward, accumulating a protein called keratin, which gives them strength. By the time these cells reach the surface, they’re basically spent—they die and become part of the stratum corneum. Eventually, these dead cells shed off through a natural process known as desquamation (which literally means “to remove scales”).

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How Does the Body Naturally Shed Dead Skin? 

The body’s natural skin cycle begins with creation of a new cell in the deepest layer of the skin, called the basal layer. As this new cell journeys through the epidermal layers toward the surface, it collects a protein called keratin, which strengthens the skin barrier and flattens out the cell. Eventually the cell dies as it is pushed to the surface by the newer cells below it. When it reaches the surface (aka stratum corneum), it will naturally detach and shed off. 

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This process takes about 28-40 days and tends to slow down with age. This can lead to a buildup of dead skin cells that makes the skin appear dull or uneven.

However, if this process slows down (because of age or certain skin conditions) or speeds up (like what happens in psoriasis), it can disrupt the skin’s overall health and appearance. People with psoriasis, for example, experience a hyper-accelerated cell turnover (only about 3–7 days), which results in thick, scaly patches on their skin.

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How to Help This Process Along with Products & Techniques

Often, yes, especially if you notice dullness, rough texture, or increased breakouts. While desquamation is supposed to happen automatically, certain factors mmight stall or complicate this process:

1. Aging: Turnover slows down, so dead cells can pile up.
2. Dryness: Dehydrated skin tends to “cling” to dead cells, creating flakes and a dull complexion.
3. Excess Oil: Oily skin can act like a glue that traps dead cells, leading to clogged pores and blemishes.

By gently exfoliating, either physically (with scrubs or brushes) or chemically (with acids or enzymes), you can help yourself get smoother, brighter, and overall healthier-looking skin.

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What is Exfoliation and How Does It Work?

Physical exfoliation includes products that manually remove dead skin cells through friction or abrasion, like sugar scrubs, exfoliating brushes or microdermabrasion. Even something like a washcloth would be considered physical exfoliation (although we don’t recommend using them to exfoliate!). These types of products are best 1-2 times per week for people with skin that isn’t too sensitive. Works for any skin type (ie. oily, dry or combination). Best practice is to avoid over-scrubbing because you want to maintain a healthy and intact skin barrier. Exfoliating facials, like the DiamondGlow are a great option because it infuses the skin with moisture and nutrients while physically exfoliating, leaving a dewy complexion.

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Chemical Exfoliation

Chemical exfoliation uses acids or enzymes to break the chemical bonds between dead skin cells, enabling them to more easily detach and shed from the newer skin below. Common active ingredients include:

• AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) such as glycolic acid or lactic acid which work best at the surface level to brighten skin
• BHAs (beta hydroxy acids), such as salicylic acid, can penetrate into the pores to target oil and acne.
• Enzyme-based exfoliators are great for sensitive skin. Common skin care ingredients in this category are derived from plants such as papaya, pineapple, or pumpkin

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Chemical exfoliators can generally be used more regularly than physical exfoliators, but this depends on the strength of the chemical exfoliator and your skin’s response to it. 

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Are there any risks to over-exfoliating or under-exfoliating?

We are less concerned with our patients under-exfoliating than over-exfoliating because over-exfoliating can be damaging to the skin’s protective barrier. As the first line of defense against environmental exposure to pathogens, UV radiation and harmful chemicals, the stratum corneum is a shield that prevents harmful things from getting in and prevents water from leaving the skin. It’s also a very important component in your body’s immune system, and if the barrier is broken by over exfoliation it can increase risk of irritation and infection.

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How Often Should You Exfoliate Your Face?

• Normal skin - 3-4 times per week, alternating gentle physical exfoliants and chemical exfoliants
• For dry or sensitive skin, you want to avoid stripping moisture out of the skin so 1-2 times per week max, focusing on AHA lactic acid or enzyme based products. I dont’ recommend harsh physical scrubs. 
• Oily or combination - 2-3 times per week. Can use either options focusing on products that can help prevent clogged pores or acne, like BHAs. 
• Mature Skin -1-2, while the rate of skin renewal is slower, aged skin tends to be more dry and sensitive . Focus on products that promote collagen renewal like ahas. 

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How to Exfoliate Your Face, Body, Feet, Etc.

Definitely don’t approach exfoliating different body parts as though they are the same! The skin thickness changes depending on where it is on the body. Even different areas of the face have different thicknesses. Your feet will have the thickest skin. A lot of people like to use the cheese grater when they get a pedicure, but we do not recommend that, as it can penetrate too deeply and presents increased risk of infection. For the feet, try a pumice stone for physical exfoliation, then apply a chemical product, like glycolic acid. If you’re really trying to make some improvement, soak your feet in water before exfoliating, add a rich moisturizing after, and throw a sock on overnight for smoother, softer skin. 

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For the body, we've had a lot of patients asking about the Korean exfoliating mitts. We think these are generally fine to use, assuming they are new and clean, but be careful not to over scrub and break the skin’s protective barrier. 

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For the face, our favorites are AHAs and BHAs. We typically advise using it in the morning, and gently massaging in a dime sized amount into your face, and even more gently when rubbing it on the neck since the skin is slightly thinner on the neck than it is on the face. 

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What are the biggest mistakes people make when trying to get rid of dead skin?

Biggest mistakes we see are being too aggressive too fast. Much like retinols, its best to work your way up in frequency of use and concentration of chemical or enzyme exfoliant. 

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That or they don’t even think about exfoliation at all. Some patients, especially my male patients are what we call skin care minimalists (ahem. barely even wash their face), so getting them to use multiple products can be tough. Exfoliating pads are a great option for minimalist patients to easily swipe on their faces. 

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What are the most effective ingredients for getting rid of dead skin?

Glycolic Acid (AHA) for brightening and smoothing. Salicylic Acid (BHA) for oily or acne-prone skin, helping to dissolve debris in the pores. Lactic Acid (AHA) for gentle exfoliation and added hydration, which is great for sensitive or dryer skin types. Enzymes (papaya, pineapple, pumpkin) for a gentle option that helps break down dead skin cells without harsh abrasion.

These are proven workhorses that help cells detach and promote a more even complexion and improved skin tone. 

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Are there any trending products or tools that are genuinely effective?

We're a big fan of technology-infused facials and well-formulated exfoliators:

1. DiamondGlow Facials: This is our in-office treatment of choice, which combines physical exfoliation with the infusion of different serums, leaving your skin extremely hydrated and glowy.
2. SkinMedica AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser: Perhaps our favorite formula for a face wash/exfoliator that brightens without overly stripping the skin.
3. Alastin Resurface Skin Polish: This one is a little abrasive for sensitive skin, but many of our patients really like it and report that it polishes away dead cells while preserving the barrier, making it suitable for many skin types.

Everyone’s skin is unique, so it is a bit of trial and error, which is normal. The key is to listen to your skin’s reactions, introduce exfoliation gradually, and match the frequency and intensity to your specific needs. When done correctly, exfoliation can deliver glowing, with smoother texture that is more vibrant and healthy-looking. 

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For personalized recommendations, schedule a consultation at SOM Aesthetics to get expert guidance on the perfect skincare routine for your skin.

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To learn more about AHAs, check out this study from the National Institute of Health.