‍What is retinol?

Retinol and retinoids are the fountain of youth, some would say. They are a well-studied family of vitamin A derivatives used in skincare products to stimulate cellular turnover, boost collagen production and regulate oil production. These effects are helpful for patients with acne, fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. 

Retinoids come in a variety of strengths and formulations and include retinol, an over the counter product, and tretinoin (Retin-A), which is a prescription formula. 

Retinol is the mildest form of retinoids and is commonly found in over the counter skin care products. It’s pretty well tolerated by most patients and is a great starting point for people who are new to retinoids. The skin is pretty amazing and will convert retinols into their active form in tissue, and this conversion process makes the product more gentle and less irritating than prescription strength versions. 

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When to start using retinol?

In your 20s. Prevention and preservation are key. This is the decade when collagen production first starts to slow down and environmental damage begins to accumulate. Using retinol early helps maintain skin elasticity, prevent fine lines before they form, and keep your complexion smooth and even. It’s also an ideal time to address acne scars, texture irregularities, and early pigmentation, as your skin is still resilient and responds well to active ingredients.

If you’re new to retinols, start with a pea sized amount 2-3 times per week and work your way up to every night or every other night. Apply to cleansed skin and top with a moisturizer. If your skin becomes irritated, overly dry or flakey, decrease frequency of application.

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What kinds of benefits can someone expect with retinol VS retin-A?

Retinols are more accessible since they are purchased over the counter, and they are going to be gentler on the skin. They produce a more gradual result than retin-A, and most people will start seeing results in about 12 weeks. Retinols are ideal for people who have sensitive skin, are new to retinoids, or who have mild to moderate skin concerns. 

Retin-A (aka tretinoin) is ideal for patients who want quick and noticeable results, or who have moderate to severe skin concerns such as acne or wrinkles. It is an FDA approved treatment for acne, and it’s very effective at unclogging pores, reducing oil production and minimizing acne-related inflammation. However, patients will generally experience a purging period when they first start treatment, where it seems like their acne is getting worse, but I typically see that my patients acne is improving within 4-6 weeks of use. 

Additionally, because Retin-A is so effective at cellular turnover, I recommend that patients apply the product to their face, neck and décolleté because as the skin starts to improve in appearance, you don’t want the neck and décolleté looking more aged than the face. 

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What side effects can someone expect with retinol VS retin-A?

Side effects including redness, irritation and peeling will be greater with retin-A compared to retinol. We advise our patients to start with a pea-sized amount every other night until they can tolerate everyday treatment. If peeling or irritation occurs, patients should reduce the amount used and frequency of treatment. Space it out until you achieve tolerance then increase the frequency. 

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Why is it important to use a sunscreen when using retinol? 

Retinol makes your skin more photosensitive, meaning it will be more prone to sunburns. Without daily SPF, you risk undoing all the benefits of your retinol by allowing sun exposure to accelerate aging and pigmentation. We always recommend pairing retinol with a broad-spectrum SPF sunscreen. They're the ultimate skincare duo to repair and protect. 

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What retinol products do we recommend?

For over the counter retinols, we recommend medical grade products:

• SkinMedica Retinol Complex: This comes in three strengths so you can work your way up in strength from 0.25 to 0.5 to 1.0 as your skin acclimates to the treatment. This product series is a great option for people who want to get closer to prescription strength. 
• Alastin Renewal Retinol: this comes in two strengths, 0.25 and 0.5. I’ve found this to be a very gentle formulation.
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For retinol options and other skincare products, check out our medical-grade skincare store.

For a personalized skin care plan designed for you by professionals, schedule a consultation at SOM Aesthetics.

To learn more about retinols, check out this study from the National Institute of Health.

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